Any Gundam Fans Here?

[Melphina]

I can't get a Crossbone Booster, but I did see a few Meteor Hoppers

[Melphina]

So I've decided to paint the gundam flat black and add a haze effect to make it look aged. It's gonna be tough to get the decals I want for it, the people that own a special printer charge a bloody fortune for one page of decals (2 dollars per page)

[FallenFedora]

0079 (The Original Gundam), Zeta, Double Zeta, Char's Counter Attack. I'm all about the Universal Century timeline... Which is probably why I also really enjoyed SEED and Seed-Destiny. 

 

Can't say I'm big on the model scene though, but it's cool to see what people come up with.

[Melphina]

Some of the best customs come from the oldest mobile suit models, GM's are among the easiest to mod and I love seeing rugged variations of them.

 

That being said, I REALLY want to get my hands on an Adele from gundam AGE, I never liked AGE but that Adele's head is just to die for imo

[Aldotsk]

Melphina, try this one instead:

http://www.gundamplanet.com/hgbc-skull-weapon.html

 

this is compatible with Meteor Hoppers and you can shape it into X shape, and make it look like it's an actual speed booster attached to your Gunpla.

 

http://www.gundamplanet.com/hgbc-dark-matter-booster.html

 

This is also cool booster to attach too, like you could scratch with Fenice Rinascita wings and change colors.

[Melphina]

ooooooh I like that crossbone booster :3

[Branson Thorne]

So I've decided to paint the gundam flat black and add a haze effect to make it look aged. It's gonna be tough to get the decals I want for it, the people that own a special printer charge a bloody fortune for one page of decals (2 dollars per page)

 

As someone who's in the business of printing stickers and such, you are getting a really good deal! $2.00 a page? I'm surprised you think that's high, I wouldn't touch that job for less then $10.00 a page.

 

Be thankful:thumbsup:

[Aldotsk]

Most of the Gundam decals go from $8-$20 depending on the figure and rarity . So $2 is a good deal.

[Sinjo]

Been watching Ironblood Orphans since it started and I'm really digging it.

 

It's the first gundam I've really enjoyed since Gundam Wing.

[Melphina]

Well I've never actually been around a printing group before, for a normal print at my university it costs .25 for a colored print, so I thought since it was 8 times higher than a colored, it felt expensive.

 

Also bad news, my gundam is ruined after I painted it. The clerk at the hobby store told me the paints I was using was acrylics, and I looked it up after a few parts broke and found out that the Tamiya PS spray cans are lacquer. I put plastic-eating paint onto my model kit...I'm going to go down there today and tell them what happened, and if they offer, I'm going to try and get a free can of acrylic paint.

[Melphina]

I mean the acrylliics they sell are dirt cheap, more than the Tamiya can I bought.

[EkheiBalduin]

Ouch. Yeah. You definitely have to watch out for the type of paint you're purchasing. Can't always trust the clerks. What are you going to do about the broken parts? Just get new ones or repair them if you can?

[Melphina]

well I have replacements in the form of Rinascita's backpack being replaced by the base Fenice's along with the wings. I am going to take the broken wings and make swords out of them I think.

[Seriphyn]

Eee, I just bought about $80 worth of models  4 in total, got 'em on order.

 

All of them are pre-painted though, what are people purchasing that require you to paint it?

[Melphina]

I'm not exactly sure what you are asking ^.^'

[ɴᴘᴄ]

Well, speaking of stock MG kits, even if you are not intent to kitbash, the assembled model typically looks unfinished. When you start getting into resin mods, those are usually just a solid color (mine have been off-white or light blue) so color-matching is necessary to have the model look complete.

 

That's just my experience, which isn't all that extensive. I still don't have an airbrush. :dodgy:

[Melphina]

So turns out after visiting the hobby shop and telling what happened, he actually told me they don't sell Tamiya lacquers, he showed me this by saying I did not buy a PS spray, but a TS. He showed me that the TS paints are acrylics, and also showed me that the paint I had gotten in the polycaps caused a bit of stick since they weren't fully dried out, and when I tried to remove the parts, the thin sections just broke. He gave me a free package of blue tack so I can cover up the polycaps and pegs.

[Aldotsk]

Here are the basic tools that I use to work on my figure, should you intend to not kitbash or perform airbrush etc.

 

• Gundam Marker Fine Point Pen 0.3 - Definitely look out for these pens. They are best ones to fill in the gap spaces to give some lining touches. I use this all the time, and they are erasable with a rubber eraser should you make a mistake.
  
• GM 300 Gundam Marker Remover - Should you actually make further side of the mistake, use this marker than Nail Polisher chemical solution. The nail polish solution can possibly melt down some of the plastic parts, so you don't want that to happen.
  
• Side Cutter - Definitely needed when you are snipping out each parts from the tray, especially Polycaps (PC). I have Tamiya exclusive Side Cutters.
  
• Cutting Mat - This is totally optional if you don't want your table to be destroyed when you are slicing up parts or scratching off parts. Sometimes, cutting mat also helps because the mat itself is rubber and matte touch into it, so the parts you are holding down won't slip away so easily.
  
• Modeler's Knife Pro - This is Tamiya's proud Modeler X-Acto knife made by them with different types of blade choices you can use. This has a very nice grip that you can use on. 
  
• Basic File set - You do need files to scratch off any small parts that are popped out when you mistakenly snipped the parts wrong.
  
• Angled Tweezers - This tweezer is mostly used for decals and stickers.
  
• Tamiya Cement - You will need this if you intend to glue parts permanently. You don't want to use Krazy Glue, because Krazy Glue can melt down plastic parts. 
  
• Fine Abrasive Papers - This is basically sand papers, and it has different type of grit level and it's friction levels. It helps you to scratch off any bump parts. a bit different from File set. - Sandpapers are used to get rid of nubmarks.
  
• Tamiya Compound Paste - You'll need this to polish off if you couldn't get rid of nubmarks. You basically use Coarse first then Fine then Finish. There are three pastes
  
• Q-tips - Always use it when you are sometimes removing small marks of markers with a bit of alcohol solution/gundam eraser marker. Even used for compound paste
  
• Toothbrush - You want toothbrush to use it when you apply compounds onto the parts.
  
• Cloth used for Glasses - You want to rub off any type of grinded or dusted parts from sandpaper or file. Even after compound. Be sure to have at least more than one cloths
  
• Coating Spray - This spray is for final touch. There are three types: Gloss, Semi-Matte, Matte. Whichever you use, will show a different result of the coating on the gunpla. You never use this spray until the end for a final touch. Be sure to never spray it at close range. It can cause smallest figure parts to melt. 
  
• Painting - Painting is the least concern. But if you want to spray, I suggest Airbrush first to cover all of them but do not spray it after you assembled, or applied decals, or even when you placed coating spray. remember, coating is the last thing you want to do.
  

[Melphina]

Oh wow that's a huge list, though I am definitely going to try and get my hands on them. The modeling knife though, what is it used for?

[Chris Ganale]

Carefully excising the nubs from where you remove a part from a tree. I use a boxcutter myself but I'm such an amateur builder.

[Aldotsk]

Oh wow that's a huge list, though I am definitely going to try and get my hands on them. The modeling knife though, what is it used for?

 

Modeling Knife is used to cut off nubs, or even sometimes to help with shaping off different types of figure results especially when you kitbash. Most professional kitbashers use modeling knife and chisel to make different types of shapes. It's also used for cutting off decals that aren't sticker based.

 

Carefully excising the nubs from where you remove a part from a tree. I use a boxcutter myself but I'm such an amateur builder.

 

Box cutter is another option! But it's quite risky more than X-acto knife and modeling knife. If you are more afraid of knives, I'd suggest you use side cutter too.

[Seriphyn]

I'm not exactly sure what you are asking ^.^'

 

Well, I bought a bunch of Real Grade stuff, and even though I've read about tool kits and paints, it seems this stuff is already coloured. So what are people painting that requires such tools?

[Aldotsk]

I'm not exactly sure what you are asking ^.^'

 

Well, I bought a bunch of Real Grade stuff, and even though I've read about tool kits and paints, it seems this stuff is already coloured. So what are people painting that requires such tools?

 

Depends. Real Grade does have a pure awesome pre-colored plastic plates. But some people who want to tweak the coloring for RG uses airbrush and not some cheap Gundam Markers.

[Melphina]

Hmmmmm, looking at the kits I have ready to donate parts, I think I'm going to try and get a V-Dash kit ordered because I am rather fond of that backpack and those arms, but I also heard that the Victory Hexa head comes in that too.

[Seriphyn]

So, I'm enjoying this RG construction process of the Gundam Exia...question is once I'm done with my three RG and one HGUC...

 

Real Grade seems currently limited in what it can offer, but it appears High Grade and Master Grade otherwise have the greatest lineup? From one who is enjoying the inner skeleton and extensive part count of Real Grade, I reckon Master Grade is the one? 

 

Does MG have the largest lineup, period?